Just a reminder, there are now ‘ring’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you reach the Kain route. [Prices & Booking] Mt. Louis! It turns out that the top half of the mountain is still roughly… half the mountain . Gmoser route and descent were in perfect condition, descent only had the odd trickle of water. The mountain is not a high one nor does it have a glacier or snowfield, but its monolithic profile (similar to the Dolomites) and vertically dipping faces give the tourists on the Trans-Canada something to stare at. The climbing itself was pretty straightforward. From my experience Jay is very good at taking the time to explain the reasons behind the decisions he is making, and potential hazards, safety tips etc. Two short corners are visible at the bottom of the face. The Gmoser route is definitely one of the most popular routes on the peak. One of the majestic mountains in SP!! Once again, a lack of an Alpine Start put us in the firing line for flying rocks, and ended up making us wait at times for a slower party just ahead of us. They reached the summit just as it was getting dark. Gmoser Route, Mt. It is a pretty famous mountain in both climbing and non-climbing circles due partially to its prominence above the valley floor, and also due to the fact that all routes require technical rock climbing skill and gear. The neatest aspect though is the summit log, like a whos who of Canadian Mountaineering...most old logs are taken down and handed over to my friends at the Banff Museum. We managed to get down the rappels in around ~2 hours, and started the very long descent. East Ridge of Mount Temple, August 2009. Gmoser Route, Mt. Louis with Jody & Monique to climb the Gmoser route which has a reputation for being one of the best of the classic rock routes on the peak. As the day progressed, the weather held up extremely well, despite a bit of cloud forming in the mid-afternoon. It was first ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain. The book claims 1 ½ hour to the base of Mt Louis. Mt. Uto and Sir Donald, Rogers Pass, July, 2009. A Night Circus. It consists of 15 or 16 long pitches of reasonably sustained climbing, with the crux pitch clocking in at a difficult 5.9. Johann Wolfgang "Hans" Gmoser, CM (July 7, 1932 – July 5, 2006) was a founder of modern mountaineering in Canada.Born in Austria in 1932, he came to Canada in 1951, and since then has been a major driving force behind the growing popularity of climbing, skiing and guiding.. In preparation for what will hopefully be a year full of alpine climbing, we decided a good way to get into shape is to get on a real alpine route as early in the season as possible. Pumping laps on Mt. Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. Looking down from the Perren Crack pitches, the Kain route looked to be dry. LOUIS THE GARGOYLE 5.10a, 280m Fa: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen July 08’ The route climbs up amazing water worn, stippled rock connecting crack system with long run out slabs (30m) of easy and airy climbing. Mt. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9) ~ By Jonny Published July 17, 2017. louis' gmoser route? Gmoser Route (III 5.8 Multipitch) 15 pitches. 31 2007.07.28 Gmoser Route on Mount Louis Route Mike Warren 47 2006.06.21 Mount Edith (Three Summits: North, Center, South) Route Ian Hunt 19 2004.05.29 Gargoyles in the Snow - Gargoyle Valley Justin Brown 21 2002.08.24 Mount Louis Climb Steve Tober 16 2001.08.05 Edith - South Ridge of South Peak (5.4) Route Ian Hunt There is a fun chimney-crack early, about the 4th pitch. Louis. Superb!! as … Speaking of slithering, here we have Ben F on Ultra Brewers, Castle Mountain. Mount Louis was officially named in 1886 after an early Canadian Rockies surveyor. The 5.8 pitch is a solid pitch that is best done with rock shoes. Louis yesterday. Judging from the summit register Kain Rt & Homage to the Spider have been getting lots of Howie on Pony Express by Brad 02-Dec-2012 : Is that a bolt you are clipping Howie?" There’s something a little bit spooky about hiking through the forest in the dark in the middle of the night. We then climb the Gmoser Route, a long, 17-pitch on Mt Louis. The “Gmoser” route…” Route finding is tricky. Super uber-cool. Dave Bethell 418 … Thanks Ray. Mount Louis. Aaron, that is the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine Rock Route in the parks. Views of the Bow Valley taken from the approach to "Homage to the Spider" The Gmoser Route. Out to the rocks, cheers. The limestone of Mount Louis is Devonian. A perfect fall day of climbing on the Gmoser Route on Mt Louis. July 12, 2004 / 5.8, ~17 pitches, trad. Many (many) hours of tired, thirsty slogging later, we finally made it back to the car as it was starting to get light again, sometime after 3am. Athabasca, I decided to turn my lens elsewhere. Climbed the Gmoser route on Mt. Louis Blog postings: Gmoser Route (Aug 2009) Gmoser Route (Aug 2009) Elevation: 2682m Location: Banff, Alberta Season: Early June through late September Logistics: Climbed as a day trip from the Bow Valley or Calgary. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Nice TR, and congrats on Mt Louis, looks like a very nice climb!! But everybody has left this old log alone and it is kept well protected. By the time we hit the Kain Route, it made sense to just go for it and finish up! Mt.Louis gmoser route . Athabasca. Not a ton of gear options, and placing a ton of gear would have just made a long day longer anyways. At some point, it just makes sense to go up and over the summit, than to try to backtrack. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. Mt. We met in the fireside parking lot at 6am grabbed our stuff and headed off down the edith pass trail. Learn how your comment data is processed. Louis, (16 pitches, 5.9). 78 Likes, 4 Comments - Stratiform Mountain Guides (@stratiform_mountainguides) on Instagram: “Mt. 14 pitches, the second last pitch grade 16(? After seeing a party on the Kain route, they decided to climb the Gmoser route instead. Plenty of good pro where the climbing does get difficult though. Temple, Greenwood-Jones. Wow, all that rock and so little time. Following numerous pitches of easy climbing/difficult scrambling from the East, this route gains the imposing south face and shares the final 8 pitches or so with the Gmoser Route.The most difficult, exposed, and enjoyable climbing is at the Perren Crack (last two pitches). ... Mont Louis - Gmoser Route. The plan was originally to do Athabasca, but it was cold and precipitating (lots 'o new snow) the whole week of the meeting, so instead we decided on Mt. Shaun has spent most of the summer in the Rockies and is really progressing with his climbing skills. Louis is an ultra classic 5.9 trad route in Banff National Park, and I recommend it to anyone looking for an awesome adventure in the region. Mt. )crack is totally exposed with 3000ft dropoff to valley below...check out the pics of Mt Louis … Before I ever got into climbing, Mt. Wicked picture! The crux pitch(es) both went down without any problems at all, although Jolene did feel a bit off on the first crux… fortunately it passed, and everything else was super fun and straightforward… albeit a lot longer than it seemed it would be! Your bagging peaks like crazy this summer!! Not exactly an alpine start, but we managed to make the best of it. And we definitely made the right choice! Louis a couple days ago with Shaun from Manitoba. Carl Johnston. Mt Louis, Gmoser Route, Sept 2009. We were originally hoping to be in the parking lot by 5am, but humming and hawing over the weather didn’t have us getting there until around 7am. Norquay and Cascade are visible behind. From the scree below Mount Edith, cross the boulder field and follow a faint trail up to the base of the south face of Mount Louis. Climbing can sometimes be a very surreal experience. Pierre stemming the crux on the Gmoser Route on Mt Louis . Louis Gmoser Route (III 5.8) with Shaun. Louis was always one of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the summit of. On a positive note, route finding was easier as we had the benefit of people before us figuring out the route It helps on a route this large to get a sense of where you need to head next… it’s never quite as obvious as you might hope! Gmoser Route on Mount Louis #6563 Timestamp Exempt: 2020.09.28 - 10:57:13 The Gmoser route on Mt. The Louis Rappels have a reputation for being rather tricky, and we were definitely kinda apprehensive about the fact that we were starting them in the growing dark. I got totally pumped on this one. Starting pitch 1. Climbing Conditions. The pitches on the southeast face are shared with the Gmoser route. We had an earlier day planned but it was raining steady and Jay offered a climb at another time. ), Gmoser Route (5.9, FA 1964), and Homage to the Spider (5.10a, FA 1987). On June 29th I headed into Mt. [MCR] Mt Louis / Gmoser Route Great day on Mount Louis today. Second/Clean of this dog tooth mountain. Particularly the first half. 1.5 hours of hiking took us to the base of the Gmoser where a number of parties were on the route just ahead of us. Mt Louis from the approach trail. They left the trailside parking lot at approximately 8:30 am and reached Mt. Finally some sun! RSS Feeds for Canada: Premier Sponsor: dead_milkman Jul 31, 2007, 1:09 AM Post #1 of 13 (3605 views) Shortcut Registered: Jan 1, 2003 Posts: 241: which inconsiderate cockbag bolted mt. Louis was always one of the top mountains I wanted to someday stand on the summit of. The Gmoser route climbs the lower slabs to a prominent corner, and then joins in with the Kain route for its upper pitches. Fortunately for us, no glowing eyes were seen on the trail, and we survived the whole outing only a little worse for wear, more than made up for with ear-to-ear smiles at finally ticking off the incredible Mt Louis. This prominent peak near Banff has been attracting climbers since legendary Mountain Guide Conrad Kain led the first ascent during an "afternoon picnic" … louis' gmoser route? Alpine Journals 384 views. Louis - The Gmoser route climbs the center of the face while the Kain route climbs near the right hand side. 2:38. We ended up sleeping in a bit, as we were a little bit underwhelmed by the weather forecast which was calling for possible rain or thunder storms. Required fields are marked *. It alone is worth the effort. Girls Lie Pitch 3 by Brad 02-Dec-2012 : Kevin on Necromancer by Brad 02-Dec-2012 : Kevin leading on the first pitch of Necromancer . What Can I say more?? Updated Nov 12, 2010. edit They got off-route in a couple of locations, but always managed to get back on-route. Gmoser Route, Mt. A great alpine climb up the East Ridge of Mount Temple. We touched the cross on the summit just after 9 pm in the fading daylight, lucky enough to spend one of the most serene few moments in the mountains I’ve ever experienced. Fortunately, we had a full moon that night, which made up for the unfortunate fact that both our headlamps were dying, and neither of us had the forethought to bring extra batteries. ACMG. Mt Louis is a local's favorite - an impressive, craggy peak but the rock (we thought) leaves something to be desired. Almost all pitches are close to 60m in length, and most of the belays are bolted. The crux’s are all well protected and the gear is good. I have been up four different routes to its summit. We had a huge day onsighting this iconic limestone spire yesterday. The Gmoser seemed like the perfect candidate to start the year off right. Louis at approximately 10:30 am. Bugaboos Trip, August 2009. Mont Louis from the highway. A late start did give us one amazing reward… summit-ting just 15 minutes before the sunset! What a beautiful piece of rock! Gmoser Route goes up the center of this face (Click on pictures for larger versions.) Chris and I decided that Homage to the Spider sounded the most interesting and challenging. Climbing the crux 5.8 pitch of the Gmoser route. The Bugaboos Howser spires 3412m, Pigeon spire 3156m, Snowpatch spire 3084m & Bugaboo spire 3204m Aaron, that is the Gmoser Route you are looking at, my favorite pure Alpine Rock Route in the parks. Mt louis Gmoser route - Duration: 9:55. added by Nathan Brown. In hindsight, our lack of an alpine start made for a very long day, for a number of reasons, but it certainly wasn’t the end of the world. We climbed the Gmoser Route on Louis today. Oops… I guess live and learn on that one! Next on the list is Super Brewers on Castle Mountain. What a spectacular (and long) route. Keep an eye out for them as we missed the first few sets. Climbing Route - Gmoser Route. Thanks for posting this, ray. The Gmoser Route is an Alpine III- 5.8 and a lot slower than the Kain Route. Despite standing at a relatively modest elevation of 2,682m (8,800′), the summit requires a long day and over 5,100′ of elevation gain from the parking lot, and the easiest route still is roughly 15 pitches of technical rock climbing. These guys are way old-school -- one of 'em started climbing in the mid 1950's. so true...been up this beauty every which way I can Marc...starting to repeat the various routes...just love being on its summit, quite a spiritual place for me mate...cheers. After taking approximately 2 billion photos of people walking up Mt. Dow Williams - May 11, 2005 10:25 am - Hasn't voted Re: Damn! A rappel provides access to the southeast face which is followed to the summit. Louis, a scant 6km outside of Banff. Fortunately, we had a good description, and it ended up going off without much of a hitch. The Adamants Mount Adamant 3345m, Austerity peak 3337m, Ironman 3233m, etc. From the scree below Mount Edith, cross the boulder field and follow a faint trail up to the base of the south face of Mount Louis. Especially when the trail you are on has a “Grizzly bear” warning sign posted at the start of it. Then we faced some careful route finding. Shaun nearing the summit on Mt. Brandon P climbing the Gmoser Route on Louis. Jim G and I enjoyed a nice day out on Mt. Despite the persistent snowy conditions in higher terrain right now, conditions on Louis were excellent. Rockies -- Mt Louis . In the 1950s he pioneered new rock climbs, most notably Grillmair Chimneys (1952), Calgary Route (1953) - with … This is about 15 pitches, several are fast, and several are slow. Louis’ Gmoser route July 9. Mount Louis 2682m, Kain route III 5.7, Homage to Spider III 5.9, Gmoser route III 5.8; Mount Assiniboine 3618m, the North ridge II 5.5; Selkik’s & Purcell Classic. 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